I don’t know about you, but I’m running out of just about everything over here, guys. Shopping days, patience for fellow shoppers, time, mental capacity, clean pairs of stretchy yoga pants to house the results of all awesome holidayfood I’ve been consuming as of late. And on a related note, I’m also running out of my beloved Valrhona cocoa powder because in order to cope with the madness, I’ve made a double batch of the best dang chocolate cookie you’ll have all season.
Because it makes me feel better about my stress levels, I’d like to think that we’re all in this harried holiday race together, so I will just get to the point and tell you what you really need to know: this particular chocolate cookie gives the legendary World Peace Cookie a run for its money. And that’s no joke. Consider it the soft, chewy counterpart to that cookie. And if you haven’t tried a WPC and have no idea what I’m talking about, well, now you’ve got an awful lot of chocolate cookie baking to do. Both are the epitome of sweet-salty-chocolately perfection. But this chewy chocolate cookie has a texture on top of that amazing flavor that is so incredibly craveworthy. It’s really something. If, like me, you’re still trying to milk these last few holiday baking days for all they’re worth, this recipe is a fantastically worthy candidate. Perfect for stacking in holiday cookie tins, too.
Now, I’m not one to go on and on about how you always have to use, say, the BEST vanilla extract or the BEST chocolate in a recipe or it’s just not even worth attempting the recipe. I’d much rather have people use the best ingredients they can afford, whatever those may be and not make anyone feel all bad about not buying the $15 bottle of vanilla extract (can you hear me, Martha and Ina?). But because we’re friends, I will always gently point it out when spending more for a premium ingredient makes a big difference in a recipe. And this, my friends, is one of those times. Going for one of the excellent cocoa powders on the market makes for a rich, midnight-dark dough that really makes this cookie spectacular.
These cookies are one for your permanent repertoire–dead simple, big chocolate flavor and so, so right with a hot mug of coffee or cocoa on a wintry day. I should know; I’ve been routinely regrouping from all the holiday craziness by parking myself on the sofa with a mug in one hand and one of these cookies in the other, in a pair of aforementioned stretchy yoga pants.
Thin, Chewy Chocolate Cookies
Adapted from Martha Stewart
This is a time that it’s so worth it to spend a little more for a dark, rich, premium cocoa powder. I love Valrhona and Scharffen Berger in this recipe. In place of regular salt, I like to use 3/4 teaspoon fleur de sel when I’m feeling extra fancy–it does make a difference.
Makes about 4 dozen
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup Dutch cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt (see note)
1 1/4 cups (2 sticks plus 4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 cups granulated sugar
2 large eggs
Additional granulated sugar or sanding sugar, for dipping
Into a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.
In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the butter and vanilla on medium speed until it is creamy, about one minute. Scrape down the bowl and add 2 cups of sugar and the eggs. Beat until the mixture is light and fluffy, about two minutes more. Reduce the mixer speed to low and gradually stir in the dry ingredients until the dough i just combined and there are no dry pockets. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about one hour.
When you’re ready to bake, position an oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.
Scoop the dough by level tablespoons and roll each portion into a smooth ball. Dip the top of each dough ball into granulated sugar or white sanding sugar to coat. Place the dough balls onto the prepared baking sheets about 1 1/2 inches apart. Bake one sheet at a time, rotating the sheet halfway through the baking time, until the cookies are set, but still soft in the center, about 8-10 minutes (you will notice the cookies will puff and then deflate–they will be finished about one minute after they deflate). Let the cookies cool on the baking sheet for five minutes before removing them to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to one week.
Reminiscing about childhood reaches a fever pitch at this time of year, does it not? Sugarcoated songs and sappy commercials (i-yi-yi, the commercials, I tell you! Where’s the Kleenex?!) are everywhere these days. I mean, sure, it was indeed awesome back in the day: setting my shoes out in the hallway at school with my fellow first graders and anxiously waiting for Kris Kringle to leave little presents in them while making ornaments out of red and green construction paper, yarn and glitter. Watching Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer and Frosty the Snowman on CBS. Flipping open the tiny cardboard windows of an Advent calendar to retrieve one waxy-tasting chocolate at a time in anticipation of the Big Day. All good stuff.
But you know what we didn’t get to have back in the day? Booze, people. Lots of booze at lively holiday parties where delicious things wrapped in puff pastry are served. Call me dispassionate, but I’d definitely trade waxy Advent chocolates for a glass of prosecco and savory palmier, warm from the oven.
There’s really no better time than right now to get a batch of these gems together. They’re the perfect sort of thing to have on hand should the snow be falling and friends come calling “yoo-hoo!”. And truly, this idea is really more of a method than an actual recipe. Even better, it all starts with a package of puff pastry you can just pick up from the supermarket (I really love a brand called Dufour, which is made with all butter and can be found at specialty grocers, but it can be rather spendy; Pepperidge Farm makes a suitable substitute).
Once the pastry is thawed and lightly rolled out, you can really go wild with whatever savory combinations of meats, cheeses, herbs and vegetables that you like. The general idea, though, is to keep the amount of filling to about 2/3 cup or so, and to grate or mince everything, even pureeing some ingredients into a paste of sorts if necessary–you want everything to stay rolled in the pastry when it’s sliced into palmiers, and bigger hunks of ingredients will tend to fall out.
This is also a phenomenal use for all the random savory odds and ends we seem to acquire in the fridge with all the food-centered goings-on during the holidays. Recently I made them with two fillings–one had bits of bacon, extra sharp white cheddar, caramelized onion and garlic and a smattering of fresh thyme. Another had sun-dried tomatoes, olive tapenade, parmesan and more fresh herbs. The bigger and bolder the flavors, the better here–the neutral canvas of puff pastry really makes them shine.
Once the pastry is filled, rolled and sliced, the palmiers can be flash frozen and then stored in big ziptop bags and baked off whenever you want to impress some people with a “Ta-daaaa! I’m so domestic!” kind of flair. And that’s quite a step up from the red and green construction paper, yarn and glitter sort of flair of days gone by, don’t you think?
These are best served warm, immediately after baking. For the puff pastry, I recommend Dufour, an all-butter brand found in specialty grocery stores.
Makes 2 dozen
1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed
3 strips bacon, roughly chopped
½ small onion, grated
1 clove garlic, grated
Generous ½ cup grated extra sharp white cheddar
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water
In a dry skillet over medium-high heat, fry the bacon until crisp and all the fat is rendered. Remove the bacon from the pan with a slotted spoon to paper toweling to drain. Pour off all but one tablespoon of the fat. Place the pan over medium heat and sauté the onion and garlic until soft and beginning to caramelize, about 5 minutes. Add the thyme leaves and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Season with black pepper. Remove the pan from the heat.
Lightly flour a work surface and roll out the sheet of puff pastry lightly into a 12-inch square. Spread the onion mixture in an even layer over the puff pastry, right up to the edges of the dough. Finely chop the cooled bacon. Sprinkle the bacon evenly over the onion mixture. Top with the cheddar. Roll one end of the pastry in towards you, tightly but gently, stopping when the roll hits the center of the rectangle. Roll the remaining the pastry away from you to the center and gently press the two rolled sides together. Wrap the dough log in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about one hour.
Position an oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners. Whisk together the egg and water in a small bowl.
Using a thin, sharp knife and a gentle sawing motion, carefully slice the log into slices about ½ inch thick. Lay the palmiers onto the baking sheets at least one inch apart and brush them with the egg wash. Bake one sheet at a time until puffed and golden brown, about 12 minutes total. Halfway through baking, rotate the baking sheet and using a small spatula or deft fingertips, quickly flip each palmier over. Serve warm from the oven for the best texture and flavor.
Sun-Dried Tomato and Olive Palmiers
Makes 2 dozen
1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed
¼ cup sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil (about 6)
¼ cup prepared olive tapenade
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 small clove garlic, sliced
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
Combine all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse several times until the ingredients are uniformly minced and well-blended.
Prepare the puff pastry as in the above recipe and spread the filling evenly over the dough. Roll, refrigerate and slice the palmiers as directed above. Brush with egg wash and bake at 400 degrees on a parchment-lined baking sheet for 12 minutes, rotating the pan and flipping the palmiers over halfway through baking. Serve warm.
The Piece of Cake kitchen is working it OUT, people! Lots on the docket in the next couple of weeks–cookies baking, candy bubbling, savory pastry puffing. With steam on the windows and Frank and Bing cranking from the speakers, holiday vibes are abounding within these walls. I can’t think of a better way to spread a little cheer this time of year than presenting someone you love (or are pretending to like–let’s face it, we all have at least one of those on the gift list, AMIRIGHT?) with something homemade and all wrapped up with a jaunty bow. Here’s some POC favorites that are perfect for such a gifting occasion. Enjoy!
Aunt Phyllis’s Crusty Butter Pound Cake
Chocolate Tweed Angel Food Cake
Chocolate Chip Cookie Brittle
Parmesan and Thyme Crackers
Simple Rolled, Iced Sugar Cookies
Heirloom Sugar Cookies
Classic Gingerbread Cookies
Roasted Nut Brittle
Now really, people, how many baked goods can you honestly think of that can’t be improved upon by adding chocolate? Let’s do this.
If the jaunty name alone doesn’t get you fitting your stand mixer with the whip attachment right this second, then surely the mere concept of something called Chocolate Tweed Angel Food Cake will get you on board. A heavenly, tender angel food cake taken to the next level with miniscule shards of unsweetened chocolate is sheer brilliance, I tell you. Although, to be totally honest, I didn’t get the use of unsweetened chocolate at first. Why not bitterweet?, I mused aloud, as nearly all my musings are lately, often with unnecessary animated hand gestures, because I spend all my days with a tiny person clinging to my jeans. At first, I was doubtful of this unsweetened chocolate thing. Reeeeaaalll doubtful.
You should know that few things are etched in my memory like the time I was knee-high to a cricket and excitedly came across a huge bar of chocolate in a kitchen cabinet. I very quietly broke off a gigantic chunk of it before putting the rest back neatly in its place and creeping to the privacy of my bedroom to devour my find, only to discover that it tasted a whole lot like shoe polish or something equally as acrid and horrible. Coughing and choking and pawing the offending matter off my tongue with a Barbie dress, I thought surely it was a setup to deter young children like myself from stealing unauthorized chocolate. And that’s how I met unsweetened chocolate. So I was skeptical of this recipe. Would it be sort of awful or really awful or just plain weird? But I pressed on. I am quite the warrior these days, you know.
As it turns out, Rose Levy Berenbaum, she of all things genius in the baking world, was right. Again. Naturally. After tasting this cake, I slapped myself for ever doubting her. The unsweetened chocolate makes complete and total sense here. By nature, an angel food cake is a sweet, sweet thing, since it pretty much is just sugar, egg whites, air and a bit of cake flour. And an absolute thing of beauty. On a side note, I could make angel food cakes all day long and never tire of the etheral quality of the whole thing. The billowing meringue and gentle folding of the soft, weightless batter over itself in a quiet kitchen…sigh…it’s totally hypnotic. Om…..
So what was I saying? Oh, yes. Rose Levy Berenbaum is super smart again and angel food cakes are super sweet. And because of the high sugar content of an angel food cake, any sweetened chocolate, even a bittersweet one, would push the whole thing into cloyingly sweet territory. The bitter and sweet balance here is what makes this cake so incredibly craveworthy. And the addition of chocolate to the batter gives just the right amount of oomph to a cake that can so often be overlooked because it’s so light and neutral in flavor.
But if you can manage to share this cake with others, it would be an awesome end to a fancier dinner party with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream and a dusting of cocoa powder. And with the beautiful way the finely grated chocolate is woven throughout the batter and how well this cake keeps, I could see making this recipe several times over and giving the cakes away as holiday gifts, wrapped in cellophane with a kicky little ribbon. But perhaps warn the recipient to keep the cake away from small children who might steal away to their bedrooms and eat the whole dang thing.
Use a good quality unsweetened chocolate here–lesser quality unsweetened baking chocolates are horribly waxy and fake-tasting. If you don’t have superfine sugar, just take regular granulated sugar for a spin in your food processor or clean coffee grinder (my preference). A box grater is the best tool for grating the chocolate and not getting it all over your kitchen. This cake doesn’t hold up well to sauces, but a nice dollop of unsweetened whipped cream is a perfect compliment.
Makes 1 10-inch cake, serving 8-12
1 1/2 cups superfine sugar, divided
3/4 cup cake flour, lightly spooned and leveled
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups egg whites, at room temperature (about 16 large egg whites)
2 teaspoons cream of tartar
4 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 ounces fine-quality unsweetened or 99% cacao chocolate, finely grated and chilled
Position an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Have ready a 10-inch angel food cake pan. Also have an empty wine bottle or similar vessel at the ready for inverting the cake during the cooling process–you want the pan to be high above the countertop so air can circulate all around it as it cools.
In a small bowl, whisk together half the sugar, the flour, and salt until evenly combined. Sift the remaining sugar onto a piece of foil or parchment to make it easy to pour it into the batter.
Place the egg whites in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whip attachment. Beat the egg whites at medium speed until foamy. Stop the mixer and add the cream of tartar. Beat at medium-high speed until the egg whites reach the soft peak stage. With the mixer running, slowly rain in the other half of the sugar and beat until the egg whites are glossy and hold stiff peaks. Beat in the vanilla.
Sift the flour mixture over the egg whites, about 1/4 cup at a time, gently folding in the dry ingredients after each addition, a few flour streaks may remain and that’s okay. Sprinkle in the grated chocolate and gently fold it in, until the batter is evenly speckled with chocolate (don’t forget to get all the way to the bottom of the bowl when folding–there is a lot of batter here!).
Spread a thin layer of the batter all along the sides of the pan, up to about half an inch from the top, so that the sides of the cake will be smooth. Scrape the rest of the batter into the pan, and smooth the top with a spatula. Bake for 30-40 minutes, until a wooden cake tester comes out with just a few moist crumbs (a metal tester will come out clean). The surface will have several deep cracks. Invert the cake onto the bottle and let it cool completely. Loosen the sides and center of the cake with a thin spatula. Unmold the cake and let rest until the top of the cake is no longer tacky, about one hour. Store the cake at room temperature in a cake dome or airtight container for up to three days, or up to ten days in the refrigerator.
I love hearing little bits about people’s holiday traditions, don’t you? Whether it’s donning gaudy sweaters or midnight Mass or a certain brunch casserole, it seems like everybody’s got their something that makes them breathe deep and say to themselves, Okay, now it’s the holidays. For me, that’s baking up a batch of Heirloom Sugar Cookies. They just taste like Christmas to me. And I know I’m not the only one getting the sugar cookie itch this time of year. When I asked you to tell me about your favorite holiday cookies, the humble cut-out sugar cookie, decorated with icing and colored sugars, popped up again and again. It’s the kind of thing that everyone can agree on during the holidays–even those with pudgy, impatient little hands.
Though my Heirloom Sugar Cookies can be rolled out and cut for decorating with a little extra doing, I usually don’t gild the lily–buttery and delicate, they’re perfect just flattened into rounds and unadorned. But this time of year, everyone needs a sturdy sugar cookie recipe that is designed for rolling and cutting and rerolling and cutting some more, something that bakes up flat and crisp, a perfect canvas for frosting and glittery decors. You know, the kind of cookie you can play with, like a totally delicious, edible craft project. Perfect for gifting and impromptu holiday cookie parties of all sorts. If you’re feeling especially crafty, you could even make them into ornaments. Really!
Now, in my pre-toddler-rearing heyday, I could spend hours crouched over sheets of cut-out cookies with a piping bag, surrounded by little bowls of royal icing in a bunch of carefully blended colors, like some kind of deranged Martha disciple. And trust me, if I could dislodge this tiny person from the leg of my jeans, I would still be perfectly happy doing just that. But that sort of fanciful celebration of frosting is just not likely to materialize during this holiday season. Sad face.
However. I will be baking festively-shaped cookies no matter what in the name of holiday spirit, dammit! And baking sugar cookie cut-outs and not decorating them at all would be sick and wrong and just basically depressing. So instead of dealing with gel food coloring and a bunch of piping bag hysteria, I opted to go the elegant-and-sophisticated-by-way-of-doing-half-the-work route. And nothing looks more slick and elegant on a cookie than royal icing, which whips up in less than five minutes if you can get your hands on a package of endlessly useful meringue powder, which I recommend you do as soon as humanly possible. I love this stuff.
Just flood the surfaces of the cookies with plain white royal icing, wiping the edges of the cookies clean of any wayward icing as you go, and generously coat them with white jimmies, sanding sugar, or, like I did with my snowflake cookies (that doubled as Stars of David depending on which way you looked at them, two concepts in one!) a nice coating of sweetened flaked coconut that made them look extra snowy and added a nice flavor punch.
Wrapped in a big cellophane bag with a nice silver bow, these white-on-white iced cookies would make a perfect hostess gift–the kind of thing that people charge exorbitant amounts of money for and make the recipient ooh and ahh over your thoughtful generosity. Now that’s some holiday magic for you.
Simple Rolled, Iced Sugar Cookies
Working with the dough one half at a time will make it easier to keep the dough cool, making it easier to roll and cut clean shapes. The meringue powder for the icing can usually be found in gourmet groceries, kitchenware and craft stores. This icing recipe will make an icing that can be spread cleanly over the entire surface of a cookie; to make it thick enough to pipe, leave out the additional teaspoon of water.
Makes 2-3 dozen, depending on size
For the cookies:
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
2 large eggs, at room temperature
For the royal icing:
1 1/3 cups powdered sugar
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon water
1 tablespoons meringue powder (see note)
1/4 teaspoon clear vanilla extract (optional)
Various sanding sugars, jimmies, etc. for decorating
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter and sugar on medium speed until light in color, about 2 minutes. Beat in the vanilla and almond extract. Scrape down the bottom and sides of the bowl and beat in the eggs one at a time. Stop the mixer and scrape down the bowl again. With the mixer on low speed, stir in the dry ingredients until the dough it smooth–it will be soft. Turn the dough out onto a work surface, gather it into a ball and pat it into a disc. Wrap the disc in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour.
When you’re ready to bake, position an oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly dust a work surface and a rolling pin with confectioners’ sugar or flour. Divide the dough in half (leaving one half covered in the refrigerator) and working with one half of the dough at a time, roll it out to about 1/4 inch thick. Cut into desired shapes with cutters and place them on the prepared baking sheets. Bake one sheet at a time, rotating the sheet halfway through baking time, until the cookies just begin to turn golden on the edges, about 10-12 minutes. Let the cookies cool on the sheets for two minutes before transferring them to a wire rack to cool completely.
While the cookies are cooling, prepare the icing. Whisk together the confectioners’ sugar, 2 tablespoons water, meringue powder and vanilla, if using, until smooth. Beat on medium speed with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Stir in the additional teaspoon of water–the icing should be thick enough to be controlled, but still thin enough to spread cleanly across the surface of a cookie without leaving a track when spread. If necessary, add a bit more water to thin the icing.
When the cookies are completely cool, ice them with the royal icing and decorate as desired. Set the iced cookies on a wire rack to allow the icing to dry completely before storing in an airtight container.
While I’m pretty much always a sucker for a great heirloom recipe, this time of year really gets me into the spirit of seeking out recipes that have soul. The more hands that have passed over a recipe, the better. When I got to talking to my Gramma about some of her favorite recipes this past summer, the first one to come up was for an oatmeal cookie that was apparently so phenomenal, it sounded like it could cure all ailments. When her packet of handwritten recipe cards arrived in my mailbox a few weeks later, I was so manically happy to see that a card for Mrs. Braun’s Oatmeal Cookies had made it into the envelope. I turned out a batch just a few days later, and lo, they lived up the hype.
Now, there’s not a whole lot to hate on with oatmeal cookies in general. Butter, brown sugar, nubbly with earthy oats–who can’t get on board with that? Communists, that’s who. But this recipe does the norm one better–the addition of sweet, plump golden raisins and chopped walnuts that offer up their distinct flavor yet somehow nearly disappear into the tweedy depths of a richly caramel-flavored oatmeal cookie base.
I thought it so interesting that this recipe called for golden raisins. I mean, I can’t even remember the last time I bought a box of these things, if ever. The flavor of a golden raisin is so much more delicate than that if its winey black raisin counterpart. Plus, I find them to be plumper and more moist, which could be a reason for the cookie turning out so wonderfully moist and chewy–more of the liquid in the recipe goes to hydrating the dry ingredients and isn’t robbed by drier dark raisins. Just a theory here, but it works for me. If Mrs. Braun (pronounced brown) was still alive, I might ask her what she thought. But then, from what I’ve heard about Mrs. Braun, the mother-in-law of one of my Gramma’s friends, these oatmeal cookies were one of the more likeable things about her. So maybe I’d keep my questions to myself.
Another thing that I don’t usually use in cookie recipes makes an appearance here–shortening. Shudder. But alas, it does have its place in baking and it does turn out consistently chewy cookies. So I couldn’t shun it altogether. But I did tinker with the recipe a bit (please don’t come haunt me for this, Mrs. Braun) so it would cut back on the skeevy shortening and include some butter, the flavor of which is just unbeatable. I should note that for half a minute I contemplated buying butter-flavored shortening, but then I thought it might just be gateway fat into even scarier fat purchases–what would be next for me? Lard? Oleo? A very slippery slope, I’d say (pun absolutely intended).
Happily, the half butter-half shortening combination worked beautifully. These cookies came out moist and chewy with beautifully crisp edges and an almost lacy landscape, and kept fabulously on the counter. For the the two days they stuck around.
Mrs. Braun’s Oatmeal Cookies
The unbaked dough freezes beautifully–just scoop the portions onto a sheet pan, freeze until solid, and toss the frozen dough balls into a big ziptop bag. Bake them straight out of the freezer for just a minute or two more than usual. Pack as many golden raisins and walnuts as you like into these cookies–the amounts are just a suggestion.
Makes about 4 dozen
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
3 cups old-fashioned or rolled oats (not quick-cooking or instant)
1/2 cup shortening
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Generous 3/4 cup golden raisins
Generous 1/2 cup chopped walnuts
Position an oven rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking liners.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt. Whisk in the oats and set aside.
In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the shortening, butter, brown sugar and granulated sugar in medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the bowl and beat in the eggs one at a time, followed by the vanilla. Reduce the mixer speed to low and stir in the dry ingredients until almost fully incorporated. Stir in the raisins and walnuts until the batter is well-blended.
Drop the batter by rounded tablespoonfuls onto the baking sheets, 12 per sheet. Bake one sheet
at a time, rotating the pan halfway through baking, until the cookies are nicely browned, about 10-12 minutes. Cool for 1 minute on the baking sheet before transferring the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to one week.
What a weekend, people! I am still reeling over my 27:11 finish in my first 5k race yesterday (Top 10 in my age group?! Who am I?). Our Thanksgiving Day was fantastic–Baby C discovered the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade on TV and spent the better part of the morning stomping her feet, kicking and clapping her hands after seeing the Rockettes perform for the first time. I spent the morning going for a long run and then cooking and baking our contributions to the fabulous holiday meal we had with old friends later in the day. Both dishes we brought with us were borrowed/stolen from the cookbooks of two of my favorite places in San Francisco–the unbelievably dreamy buttermilk mashed potatoes from Zuni Cafe (oh mah gah, make these at your earliest convenience, please and thank you), and the brandy-spiked Pumpkin Pie from Tartine Bakery.
In the Piece of Cake Recipe Box, you’ll also find a recipe for a Pumpkin Tart, which I made a few Thanksgivings ago and it’s also a completely fabulous addition to any holiday menu. But really, this latest pumpkin pie recipe couldn’t be more different from the tart. I remember falling in love with the first pumpkin tart because it changed my mind about the concept of pumpkin pie–it had the most mellow pumpkin flavor and was delightfully sweet and I still have a soft spot for that tart. But lately I’ve been drawn to less sweet desserts, and Tartine’s recipe for pumpkin pie fits the bill–the earthy flavor of pumpkin is front and center here, with a lovely undercurrent of gentle spices, the barest sprinkle of brown sugar, a glug of brandy adding sparkle, and a healthy amount of heavy cream to round it all out. This is The Full Monty of pumpkin pies–more about true pumpkin flavor, lush and full, than it is about a candied or caramelized filling.
A word about pie crust here. I love making pie crust, really I do. I know it comes together in a snap with less than five ingredients and there’s really nothing difficult about it, per se. But even the snappiest processes become laborious when you have a tiny person hanging onto your jeans. And since our Thanksgiving plans came together sort of last minute, I didn’t have extra time to plan ahead. So a store-bought crust was my friend on this day. I find most store brands to be waxy and heavy in the mouth and basically vile, mostly due to a whole lot of creepy ingredients. But there is a brand called The French Picnic that’s a perfectly lovely, all-butter crust that comes out nice and flaky and saves the day when you just don’t have the time or desire to make a scratch crust and so I totally recommend it.
On this day, however, even a store-bought crust couldn’t quell my manic state. I didn’t pay attention to how much the dough had warmed up before it went into the oven to prebake, so my awesome crimping job pretty much disappeared in the oven, but the filling more than made up for the amateurish-looking crust, and let’s face it–anything can be saved with a healthy blob of freshly whipped cream. With a hot cup of coffee, a slice of this pumpkin pie was a great little button on an All-American Thanksgiving feast, satisfying the sweet tooth just so without pushing anyone into rolling-on-the-floor with gluttony territory. Baby C gave it a solid endorsement by eating half a slice in short order, and I gave thanks that the child finally ate a serving of fruit that day.
For the crust, use any pie crust you like, homemade or store bought, and consult the source for how to partially bake the crust (you want it to look dry and pale, but not browned, with no dense or opaque areas). For a good store-bought crust, I recommend The French Picnic, which can be found at places like Whole Foods and gourmet grocery stores. Make sure the pie shell is well-chilled before going into the oven for prebaking. The sugar in the recipe can be adjusted for your sweet tooth with no effect on the setting of the filling.
1 10-inch, single-crust pie shell, partially baked and cooled
2 cups pure pumpkin puree
3 large whole eggs
1 egg yolk
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons brandy
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (or 1/4 teaspoon regular ground)
1/8 teaspoon ground white or black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
Position an oven rack the center position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
In a large bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, eggs, egg yolk, cream and brandy until well-blended. In a small bowl, combine the borwn sugar and spices. Whisk the spiced sugar into the pumpkin mixture.
Pour the filling into the pie shell and bake until the filling is set but wobbles ever so slightly in the very center when jiggled, about 60-75 minutes (the filling will set further as it cools). Let the pie cool on a wire rack. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature with lots of freshly whipped cream. Store any leftovers in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
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